PARIS (AP) — A tardy Nicki Minaj held up H&M’s fall-winter night present that ended on a stirring observe with a efficiency by The Weeknd. It capped a dizzying day in Paris.
Day 2 of Paris Trend Week noticed deconstructed garments, blown-up prints, and contrasting patterns shake up the runways on the VIP-filled collections of Dries Van Noten, Maison Margiela and Lanvin.
Listed below are some highlights:
LANVIN’S NEW TONE
There’s been a dramatic change in tone at Lanvin since Bouchra Jarrar took over the artistic reins from Alber Elbaz final yr.
Slim-cut jackets, menswear python chain boots, and — gasp — pant fits have all been injected into the home’s nostalgic DNA of uber-feminine, diaphanous and glitzy robes.
The outcomes have been blended.
Jarrar has added a down-to-earth vibe to the ready-to-wear designs that has lessened the dreamy romanticism related to the Elbaz years. However the sense luxurious and class has not been utterly misplaced.
Contrasts have been the order of the day Wednesday in a present that emphasised frothy neck detailing and Victorian silhouettes.
A coat in daring chevron motif fur contrasted severely with a pale pink mirror satin slip gown.
Whereas, a protracted striped tweed coat jarred with the gentle sheen of a slip gown in ivory mirror satin.
Their intentional — however stark — textural polarity won’t be a success for everybody.
However they have been finely executed.
LANVIN’S FRENCH STARS
French cinema icon Isabelle Adjani triggered a stir as she arrived on the final minute at Lanvin’s present.
The 62-year-old star — who gained worldwide fame for films equivalent to “Camille Claudel” and “Diabolique” in addition to two Oscar nominations — slipped into the Lodge de Ville present venue, maybe hoping to be hidden behind her turban and shades.
However the equipment did not idiot the photographers.
To a flash of cameras, she took her seat reverse the previous soccer participant and “Elizabeth” actor Eric Cantona, 50, who declined to talk to the press.
MAISON MARGIELA SNIPS AWAY
It was snip, snip, snip for John Galliano.
The Maison Margiela designer took to the basic wardrobe with couture scissors for an ingenious present that pared down clothes to their naked necessities. The opening look — a conventional stone trench coat — was reduce away on the chest right into a coronary heart form to evoke the silhouette of a bustier gown.
If there was one leitmotif, it was discovered within the blown-up prints, polka dots, fake snakeskin and checks that littered the runway.
The vertical traces on a plaid examine on a patchwork coat have been frayed into tassels — the textile itself deconstructed — which appeared to mesh with the tousled, frayed hair of the runway mannequin.
Elsewhere, varsity coats have been turned inside out with the hidden tough hems uncovered in a feat of deconstruction.
VAN NOTEN’S CONTRASTS
Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, a lover of flowers and of Japanese types, fused each passions collectively within the present Wednesday — leading to a contrasting style symphony of colour and kinesis.
And this was all served up on the designer’s signature oversize and free silhouettes.
A voluminous coat with a pink rose motif was optically overlaid with Asian-looking geometric circles. Elsewhere, skinny stripes that evoked the fabric of a Japanese kimono have been punctuated with shiny blue semicircles, and capped off with modern blue denim denims.
Asiatic satin sheens shimmered previous friends.
And it this weren’t sufficient, luxuriant coloured fur trim was thrown in — onto coat lapels and sleeves — to make sure that this assortment was one of the crucial vibrant seen thus far this season.
SAINT LAURENT PARTIES
Celebrating designer Anthony Vaccarello’s sophomore outing for Saint Laurent, the Kering-owned style home hosted a glitzy celebrity-filled soiree that bumped into the early hours Wednesday following the gathering.
Mannequin Eva Herzigova, 43, and actress Zoe Kravitz, 28, led within the glamour stakes carrying outfits with plunging necklines to the Le cabaret Paradis Latin venue.
Different VIPs in attendance included Jane Birkin’s daughter Lou Doillon and filmmaker Gaspar Noe, who all have been handled to a stay efficiency by French band “Rendez-Vous” amid the venue’s metallic and neon installations.
MENS’ AND WOMENS’ WEEKS BLURRED
Increasingly Paris homes are selecting to showcase their mens’ and womens’ designs throughout the identical present. And it is inflicting a specific amount of head-scratching amongst diligent fashionistas.
Throughout menswear week in January, Saint Laurent for instance forwent a mens’ assortment — and as an alternative confirmed a speckling of mens’ designs throughout their womenswear present on Tuesday.
Kenzo went the alternative approach, and confirmed all their mens’ and womens’ fall-winter 2017 designs again in January.
So for Wednesday’s allotted calendar catwalk house for womenswear, the French home needed to get artistic. They held a Syrian-themed sit-down dinner by chef Mohammad Elkhaldy, who escaped the Syrian struggle to Paris.
A style presentation that traced the wealthy historical past of the home based by Japan-born Kenzo Takada in 1970 was additionally included.
Thomas Adamson on Twitter: ThomasAdamson_K@twitter.com